Elbrus. North to South Traverse. Russia 5642m

Where possible we try to avoid the masses and find an original way to the summit and Elbrus is no exception. We have selected a complete traverse of the highest mountain in Europe as our way to tick off another of the coveted 7 summits. This ascent fits in well with the time frame offered by the standard route (and for a similar price) but offers a dimension of climbing not experienced when following the normal route, adding a fantastic taste to an area which few climbers get to experience.

We have taken a new approach to climbing the mountain blending elements of ascending a high Himalayan peak with modern techniques of Alpinism to create a mountaineering experience that retains a pure exploratory element.

Mt. Elbrus (west summit) stands at 5,642m; the east summit is slightly lower at 5,621m. The mountain has a twin domed summit which contains a permanent icecap feeding 22 glaciers, these in turn give rise to the 3 main rivers in the valley. Furthermore Elbrus sits on a moving tectonic area, and although the mountain has been technically termed dormant it sits on top of highly active, deeply sourced magma.

Mount Elbrus is located in the western Caucasus of Russia, near the border of Georgia. This 880 km range forms an effective barrier between Europe and Asia. The region is certainly one of the less travelled areas of the globe and often takes experienced mountain travellers by surprise by virtue of its unique blend of Eastern and Western culture as well as the nature of the climbing here which is a mix between Alpine and Himalayan. There are few mountains which rival its unique place in not only geography but history.

Elbrus' true first ascent was made by the British in 1874. There had been a lot of Soviet scientific expeditions on the peak and surrounding area around this same time but only a recorded ascent of the lower peak was noted by these parties. Elbrus has gained recent popularity as both a highly useful training ground for Soviet climbers en-route to establishing world class ascents in the Himalayas as well as having achieved the status of being the highest mountain in Europe. Its relatively easy glaciated terrain allows for mostly trouble-free ascents. Howewer climbers will need to be proficient in the use of crampons and ice axes (or ski-poles) for an ascent of the route outlined below.

The major ascent difficulties lie in it's notoriously bad weather: strong winds and generally colder temperatures than experienced on mountains of similar altitude.

This Itinerary varies greatly from the standard approach and retains the level of adventure which an ascent of this mountain deserves. We will tackle this mountain on its own terms and feel the satisfaction of having achieved a summit we worked hard for in the style of those who climbed it on the first ascent.

Itinerary

Day 1: Depart UK

Depart UK. Meet 360 guide at airport and check in luggage. Flight to Russia.

Day 2: Arrive in Russia

Arrive in Mineralnie Vody.

We have a night's accommodation in our Hotel. There will be time free to sightsee in town and in the evening we meet up for a full 360 brief about the nuts and bolts of the itinerary. At this point we also meet our local Russian mountain guides.

Day 3: Mineralnie Vody - Emanuil Valley (2,250m)

Early departure from hotel (05:00) to the campsite. The road is only a partly paved dirt surface. Today we head into the hills and the views open up to give an indication of the fantastic landscape we will be living in for the next week or so. Tonights campsite is in the Emanuil's valley. The northern base camp of mount Elbrus at 2,250m.

Day 4: Emanuil Valley (2,250m)

Today we climb to camp 1 at 3,800m. (4-5 hrs) and return to Emanuil's field (BC) to sleep. Today's climb will allow us to get into trekking shape and to test our boots and equipment. But more importantly today's ascent will allow us to gain valuable acclimatisation by sticking to the climbers adage of "climbing high and sleeping low". The terrain is a geologist's delight as we climb through a surreal volcanic landscape.The scenery is dominated by hardened lava contorted into stone mushrooms, volcanic bombs and exotic lava sculptures.

Day 5: Emanuil Valley - Camp 1 (3,800m)

Today we re-ascend the route we climbed yesterday and we spend the afternoon relaxing and acclimatising in Camp 1. This camp is situated on the steep moraine formed by glacial activity. We will be camping near an old hut which serves as a rarely used shelter for climbers using this route.

Day 6: Acclimatisation ascent to Lenz's rocks (4,600m)

Today we will test ourselves by climbing to the height of the Matterhorn. A valuable exercise in acclimatisation as well as being a fantastic visual feast as the mountain range around us opens up with each passing hour. The solitude will be very noticeable climbing the mountain from the North, and we will experience what it must have felt like for the first climbers who approached the mountain from this valley. then we descend down to our camp at 3,800m (2 hours.)

Day 7: Rest Day

Today will be a training day where we will refresh your skills in moving over snow and ice-covered terrain. Emphasis will be on moving on and roping up for glaciated terrain and getting confident on crampons. Overnight in the camp. (3,800m).

Day 8: Summit Day (5,642m)

Summit day! Traverse from the North to the South side of Elbrus. Early start (3am). Ascent to the western (highest point) of Mount Elbrus on moderate snow and ice slopes. We will team up into small groups with a guide to each one and will be roped up from just above the camp. We negotiate our way around several crevasse but the going is easy. Our headtorches light our way until just below the summit when dawn illuminates the horizon and we climb to the highest summit in Europe. This traverse offers a speedier descent then the normal route and after several more hours we should be down the Southern slopes and in the local village of Terskol, where a welcome beer and warm bed awaits. As a rule of thumb weather becomes worse in the 2nd part of the day on the north side of the Elbrus. If we do traverse successfully, our personal belongings will be driven to Terskol. Elbrus is a spectacular double domed summit. For a strong team (leaving at Midnight ) it may be possible to climb the 2 summits of Elbrus. From the high camp we climb first to the east summit (5,621m) and then drop down into the saddle separating the two summits before climbing the west, and true summit of Elbrus (5,642m). This variation on the route would require us to descend to the barrel camp site on the normal route as it takes a lot longer to complete. From this campsite we take the ski-lifts down the next day to re-join the original itinerary at Mineralnie Vody.

Day 9: Contingency day

Reserve day in case of bad weather in the summit camp, if we traversed successfully we stay in hotel accommodation.

Day 10: Mineralnie Vody

Transfer to Mineralnie Vody. (4hrs). Check into Hotel and collect clean clothes. Good lunch and chance to relax at the Agua Centre. A hearty dinner to celebrate, with our ascent certificates presented by our Russian guides. Night in Hotel.

Day 11: Depart Russia
Breakfast in hotel. Transfer to Mineral Vody airport and flight home.

Day 12: Arrive UK

Arrive home.