Aneto is the highest mountain in the Pyrenees. Its flanks retain the
largest glacier of this spectacular mountain range and an ascent to its
lofty summit introduces the climber to the best of Pyrenean climbing.
The view from the top is staggering but do not come without challenge.
A huge variety of terrain ranging from steep grassy flanks to sharp
rocky ridges, gigantic boulder fields, glass smooth granite slabs and
steep bullet proof ice needs to be navigated to successfully reach the
top. Even for the seasoned mountaineer Pico Aneto never gives its
summit easily. A more exciting and rewarding day out is hard to
imagine. Aneto is guided by professional guides who know the
mountain well. All equipment is provided and the skills needed to climb
the mountain are taught very thoroughly before an ascent is considered.
Safety is the prime consideration for the guides when leading trips up this mountain.

Day 1.

Fly from UK and arrive at Luchon (www.papilio-luchon.com). Meet guide and spend some time getting familiar with
equipment and do a basic skills session. Ascend to Suberbagneres ski station by tele-cabin and view Aneto from
this 1800m vantage point. A short afternoon/evening walk.

Day 2.

Transfer to the Hospice de France from where we ascend the spectacular Col de Venesque. The path zig zags
steeply up this heavily vegetated glacial valley to a mountain refuge (food and drinks available) and several
spectacular “hanging” mountain lakes. Situated just above us at this point is the narrow notch called the port de
Venesque. This narrow opening through the high rugged ridge is an international border crossing between France
and Spain. We are rewarded for our efforts by jaw dropping views of the entire Maldetta massif containing Pico
Aneto and the entire Pyrenean range. We take a short detour from this point to climb the summit of the Savoguard
(2700m) which lies to our west (1 ½ hrs). From here we can see the heavily forested French valleys and the
glaciated Spanish summits. Total walk time 6-7 hours. Lunch included. Night at Papilio guest house.

Day 3.

Ascent of Pico Aneto. Breakfast at 3 and out the door by 3:30am. After a 3 hour drive we hop onto a bus which
takes us into the National Park.

We climb up the initial vegetated slopes of the sharp ridge that divides the Maldetta range from the Aneto summit.
After 2 hours we reach the ridge and follow its rocky back for a while until we reach a feature known as the keyhole
from where it is possible to look across the glacier and to see the summit for the first time. A short descent puts us
into a vast boulder field and an intense boulder hopping session begins. After an hour we reach the ice and begin
a lesson in crampon technique and basic glacier travel rules. Then we rope up and begin the exciting part of glacier
travel and traversing on steep ice to the summit that looms closer with each step. Eventually we reach the steep
rocky northern flank of the mountain and climb up to the low summit of Aneto. This broad summit is 10 meters lower
than the true summit but separating the two lays in the famous Mohammed step. This feature is a 40m long and
1 foot wide rock ridge that has immense drops on either side. We rope up and you will be guided across this
challenging feature. After a nerve racking moment or two we stand on top of Aneto.

The ascent complete, we are rewarded with un-beatable views and a fantastic sense of achievement. We descend
via a different route once we have re-crossed the Mohammed ridge. The descent takes us directly into the picturesque
alpine valley of Venesque and from there past several waterfalls and gorges to the vehicle. Total walk time 10 - 12 hours. Lunch included. Dinner at Benesque village or in Luchon. 2 hour drive back to Luchon.

Day 4.

At leisure in Luchon and surrounds or fly back to the UK.


Cost: E 300 per day for up to 4 pax. (and this is the guiding fee only)

Maximum of 4:1 client, guide ratio.

The price above does not include insurance, flights, food or local accommodation. This is a guiding fee only.

Papilio accommodation prices can be found on www.papilio-luchon.com this site is also valuable to find and
book relative flights from the UK and to check out the various transport options from Toulouse to Luchon.

Local transfers including those to the mountain are arranged for up to 4 pax only.