GII forms part of a mountain range in Northern Pakistan known as the Karakoram. It is part of the Gasherbrum group of 5 mountains all named Gasherbrum, (each one higher than 7000 meters) that form a magnificent circle at the head of the Baltoro glacier. It is GI and GII that reach over 8000m and these two mountains collectively are the 11th and 13th highest peaks in the world.
The route on GII offers uncomplicated climbing in an excellent and spectacular location. Well-organized and sufficiently resourced expeditions to this mountain have enjoyed the high rates of success in the recent years.
To climb GII involves trekking to its base camp over a period of 7-9 days and then waiting for the conditions to become favourable for an ascent. The trek in to GII Base-camp is billed as the most exciting mountain trek out there and is in-itself an adventure without equal. This long trek has the additional advantage of providing superb acclimatization .A walk up the spectacular Baltoro glacier reveals many of the world's most famous peaks: Cathedral Spires, Masherbrum Trango Towers, , Broad Peak, Mitre Peak, K2 Chogalisa and many more.. Quite simply it is all that a Himalayan adventure should be about.
Our climbing route of choice is the SW ridge. This route alternates, between the ridge and the snow face, following the easiest line up snow and ice slopes weaving between crevasses and small ice-cliffs. Even though it is not hard to climb, the route is consistently steep, which means height is increased swiftly. Like on all mountains this size the climb has some objective dangers but this is significantly less then on the neighbouring 8000m peaks as the terrain is generally easier to ascent and also all the mountain camps are placed in safe sites.
The route can be divided into several sections each providing a good climbing challenge.
Base Icefall: The icefall has to be negotiated in order to reach the foot of the ridge.. This Icefall is generally traversable in around 7 hours (and the teams time through it decreases as we get more acclimatised). This icefall is in no way as imposing as the glaciers found on the other 8000ers such as the Khumbu on Everest. 360 expeditions with the help of the other teams on the mountain create and maintain a safe route through this section.
The southwest ridge: Camp 1 is be placed at 5900m above the icefall, near the foot of the southwest ridge . Fixed ropes and bamboo wands are generally placed on the whole route, from camp 1 to camp 3, though the part from camp 1 to camp 2 is significantly steeper and more exposed than the part from camp 2 to camp 3. Camp 2 is placed on sheltered ridge at about 6500m. Camp 3 is on a shoulder at about 7000m above the main part of the snow slope, under the imposing summit snow pyramid. From camp 3 the route continues up the southwest ridge to about 7400m. This is the site of the infrequently used camp 4. Moving between camps we will aim to leave first thing in the morning to avoid the worst of the days heat .
Diagonal Traverse / Summit ridge: A lengthy rising sloping traverse on snow leads to under the summit pyramid and joins the East ridge at about 7740m. This is then followed in a splendidly exposed situation, but with no great difficulty, to the summit. With reasonable snow conditions, the summit day will involve about 10 hours of ascent starting at midnight.
The best time to visit the Karakorum region of Pakistan is May through September. With June, July and August being the optimal climbing months. The weather in the Karakorum is unpredictable, so we allow plenty of time to climb the mountain. Storms can last for several days followed by days of balmy weather in which we plan to establish high camps and ultimately climb to the summit..
The outlined itinerary can also include an ascent of Gasherbrum I ( 8080m. ).
Naturally an ascent of this neighbouring Giant depends on the ascent of GII being done in a reasonable time, the team being fit and sufficiently acclimatised and mountain conditions being favourable. GI is a more challenging peak and will require a more advanced set of climbing skills. Gasherbrum I can be climbed Alpine style via the Gasherbrum La and the Northwest Face. For those wanting to go the extra mile this is an option that can be achieved by paying the extra peak permits and the necessary logistical costs.
This expedition is geared at maximising the teams chances of reaching the summit of GII. To that effect 360 expeditions provide high quality ground crew and base camp services, equipment and leadership. This expedition cuts no corners in ensuring that a safe expertly managed and well resourced experience is provided for every team member.
Team members are required to operate with a certain degree of self sufficiency and have a solid understanding of basic Alpine techniques. Team members are further requested to be very fit and have at least experienced the rigours of expedition life on similar mountain ventures before participating in an expedition of this magnitude.
A detailed itinerary can be forwarded to those wishing to know more about climbing this amazing mountain from the 360 team..
Day 1 International flight. Arrive Islamabad.
Day 2 Day in Islamabad. 360 leader has briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO.
Day 3 Fly to Skardu over spectacular Karakorum or drive to Chilas if the weather is not good.
Day 4 Day free at Skardu or drive Chilas-Skardu (8-10 hrs).
Day 5 By jeeps to Askole (8-9 hrs) at 3000 meters.
Day 6 Dumordu River to Jhola (8-9 hrs).
Day 7 Trek to Paiyu, good views of Baltoro and trango group (7 hrs).
Day 8 Day free at Paiyu for acclimatization (3600m).
Day 9 To Khuburtze (5-8 hrs): 4000 m.
Day 10 Urdukas: 4-5 hrs walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine
Day 11 Goro II: Glacier for 3-4 hrs to the camp site at 4500 meters
Day 12 Concordia: 5-6 hours easier walk.
Day 13 Trek to Gasherbrum camp.(6 hrs)
Day 14-40 Climb Gasherbrum.
Base camp: 5300m
Camp 1: 5900m
Camp 2: 6500m
Camp 3: 6900m-7100m
Camp 4 option usually at c7300m
Day 41-47 Return to Askole and drive to Skardu.
Day 48 Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas.
Day 49 Day free at Islamabad or drive to Islamabad.
Day 50 International flight home.
In comparison to any other mountain range this area is quite simply the grandest of them all. In fact any visit to other mountains, after having seen the Karakoram will always be slightly marred by the memories of what lies in the North of Pakistan. |