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Spantik, 7028m. 
Climbing the 'classic' SE ridge route. Karakoram. Pakistan.


Spantik also known as Golden Peak and Ghenish Chhish is rightfully becoming known as one of the classic mountaineering objectives in the stunning Karakoram mountains of Northern Pakistan. This peak with its famous Golden pillars is a striking objective to behold and despite its fierce aspect it is relatively straight- forward and safe to climb. As the crow flies is barely 30 km from the in-famous Karakoram highway. Yet it is approached by trekking for four days along the dramatic Chogolungma Glacier passing through sensational mountain country. This mountain is located in a remote corner of the Karakoram and receives many less expeditions than the peaks of the Baltoro region.

Our climbing route: The south-east ridge is a long snow ridge with only a few sections of technical difficulty and little objective danger. This route was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock Workman who reached a very creditable high point of 6700m. Karl Kramer’s German expedition made the first successful ascent of the mountain by this route in 1955. The views from the summit are some of the most spectacular in this unique mountain range: The Nagar and Hunza peaks can be seen close by to the west, while Nanga Parbat lays to the south and K2 and the Baltoro peaks can be seen on the eastern horizon.

Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective: To join us you will need to be very fit and have a good understanding of the fundamental mountaineering skills. The route lends itself to a good acclimatisation regime and enjoys a solid success rate
This expedition is a superb climbing opportunity to a remote corner of a fabulous range of mountains and a great introduction to the Karakoram and bigger expeditions.

Day 1 Fly London to Islamabad.

Day 2 Arrive Islamabad.

On arrival, we are met by our Pakistani liaison and taken by bus to our hotel in nearby Rawalpindi. The 360 leader will visit the Ministry of tourism to finalise the final permit details. Team relax and sightseeing possibilities.

Day 3 An early morning flight to Skardu.

This spectacular flight  giving great views of Nanga Parbat and many other famous peaks. Sometimes  this flight is cancelled due to weather and if this is a problem the team will move to Skardu by road on the spectacular Karakoram highway. This journey is an adventure in itself and a great introduction to Baltistani life. We stay overnight in a comfortable hotel, c2300m.

Day 4 At leisure in Skardu.

We rest and explore Skardu today, this bustling centre has been used by many expeditions as a base from which they head into the mountains. It may not seem much today but after our isolation in the Karakoram proper will seem like a huge city upon our return. However, if the flight is not possible and we travel by road, we arrive in Skardu today.

Day 5 Travel to Arandu.

Jeeps take us up the Shigar Valley, following the Askole road before branching westwards to follow the Basha River Gorge to the village of Arandu. Due to the dramatic geology of these mountains landslides sometimes cover the road and we will have to negotiate the debris to get to the trafficable road beyond. This 85 Km journey often requires a full day. We camp at the edge of Arandu village c2770m.

Day 6 Trek to Chogo Brangsa camp 3,300m.

Today we meet the  local porters from the village, these hardy mountain men carry our equipment to base camp. The first day of trekking is quite short following the grassy valley on the northern side of the Chogolungma Glacier. (5-6 hrs)

Day 7 Trek to Bolocho camp 3,800m.

A longer day of trekking. We continue along the northern edge of the Chogolungma Glacier, crossing two subsidiary glaciers to a campsite by the Bolocho Glacier. (7-8 hrs)

Day 8 Trek to Spantik base camp 4,300m.

We leave the ablation valley and head on to the ice of the Chogolungma Glacier. We gently gain height as we approach base camp at the foot of Spantik's South East Ridge. (5-6 hrs)

Day 9 Rest Day at base camp.

Today is spend at our base camp. Resting acclimatising and sorting out our equipment for the days ahead. We will finaly be able to trace our route and take in the objective that lies ahead.

Day 10-22 Ascent of Spantik.

We have 13 days to climb the peak. Three camps will be established above BC: camp 1 at 5250m, camp 2 at 5650m and camp 3 at 6250m.  Over these days we begin to ferry equipment and food up to the higher camps. Each team member carrying relatively small loads to enhance acclimatisation and adhering to the mountaineers dictum of climbing high and sleeping low. Progressively we set up high camp and will be able to make a summit bid. The slopes are mostly angled at 30° or less. A few sections of 40° will be equipped with fixed ropes.

Day 23 Packing up base camp.

Together with our local staff, we will dismantle base camp.

Day 24 to 27. Return to Karakoram highway and Arrundu via our approach route.

Day 27 Drive to Besham.

A minibus will collect the group and take us onto the Karakoram Highway for the journey south.

Approximately 8hrs drive will take us to Besham where we spend the night in a comfortable hotel.

Day 28 Arrive in Islamabad/Rawalpindi.

A further 8hrs drive takes us out of the rugged Karakoram scenery into the cultivated lowlands. An early start will enable us to complete the journey before the day gets too hot and leave us with a free afternoon for sightseeing and shopping in Islamabad/Rawalpindi.

Day 29 Fly from Islamabad to London.

PRICE: £3700

   

Included

»
International and domestic airfares.
» Professional English speaking
   mountain guides. (360 and Local guide)
» Meals as mentioned, including drinks
   at camp meals.
   (B - breakfast, L - lunch, D - dinner)
» All road transfers
» All hotel accommodation as mentioned
» Climbing permits for Spantik porters
» Emergency and team mountaineering equipment.

Not Included

»
Drinks in restaurants, approximately
   4 meals
» Personal gear for trekking and climbing
» Tips for local crew.
» Visas where applicable

 

 

Dates:

 

 
6 June - 5 July 2009