Ama Dablam

Our 360 guides are some of the most experienced in the business. They spend many months a year climbing and trekking in the Himalaya. They have established a close rapport with our ground crew and run a very enjoyable expedition.

We have a 2:1 ratio when climbing on the mountain. Our 6 person teams depart with one 360 expedition guide. This ratio also includes Sherpa guides.

Generally your accompanying 360 leader will be in charge of the expedition and he or she will be assisted by the Sherpa Guides. Sometimes climbers prefer to climb without Sherpa guides and the need for porters. This option is naturally the climbers decision and depending on their level of experience.

There are a number of options surrounding the Ama Dablam climb. Depending on where you are joining the expedition depends on where you will meet your 360 guide. Some clients come acclimatised and others join us in Kathmandu and head out on Mera Peak or Everest BC before heading onto Ama Dablam. Naturally we will talk through all options with you before you join.

Water comes from ice. Above Base Camp we use local snow drifts and snow fields to collect ice and then melt this to water. This is a labour and fuel intensive job. We boil this snow/ice immediately to make soups and hot drinks. Another round of ice is boiled to produce water for the next day’s use.

Before leaving camp in the morning you will fill your water bottles or camel bladder. If this runs low you will have ample more water to replace it with. For most walking days water can be replenished at the evening’s campsite.

All meals on the mountain are of the highest possible standards. In fact considering that our 360 expedition guides have to produce the best possible meals in a wilderness setting using only the most basic of facilities (kerosene stoves) the meals they produce are nothing short of miracle. The meals are always fresh, nutritious and varied. We ensure that dietary preferences are always met and that the best local ingredients are used.

The underlying aim is to provide balanced nutritional meals packed with carbohydrates to refuel hungry bodies and to replenish stores for the next day of activity.

On top of well balanced meals clients are provided with coffee, tea and snacks upon arrival into camp. The morning wake-up call is usually accompanied with a cup of tea or coffee in your tent.

Clients are invited to bring along any of their favourite snacks and goodie bags from home or Kathmandu as they are expensive to buy at Base Camp. Concentrate on high energy food-stuffs such as Jelly babies etc to give you that little boost on an arduous day.

Meals at Base Camp will include fresh fruits and vegetables. Lightweight nutritious foods are prepared higher on the mountain.

At the Base Camp of Ama Dablam each climber will have their own tent. Climbers will be acclimitised from having trekked to EBC or having climbed on a nearby 6,000m trekking peak. This arrangement allows climbers to properly relax and enjoy a bit of comfort before the ascent begins.

Most altitude related symptoms manifest themselves at night. We therefore only have tent sharing above Base Camp. Also camping options at C2 and C3 are very limited and sometimes three climbers might be sharing one tent.

Tent share is always organised according to similar sex and where possible age groups. Obviously if you are climbing this mountain with a friend or partner then share tents with them. If you have joined the team by yourself then it is highly likely that you will be sharing a tent with your pre-assigned room buddy unless prior arrangements have been made.

We advocate a little bit of self-help on the climb. If you have a blister developing, for example, then please stop, take off your boot and treat it before it becomes a problem.

We would recommend your own first aid kit should contain:

Diamox, or other high-altitude drug, enough for the duration of the expedition; a basic blister kit, plasters, antiseptic, sun protection, your own personal medication (your luggage might not get to camp before you and so you may not be able to take your medicine according to the regime you are used to), basic pain relief (paracetamol/aspirin/ibuprofen,) and a personal course of antibiotics – two different types are preferable, as back up. Foot powder in your socks every morning is great for preventing blisters.

Generally, the best approach to take when packing your first aid kit is to include such basic medications as if you would on a family or personal holiday.

Your 360 expedition guide will carry a very comprehensive first aid kit that contains a wide range of supplies and medications. They are fully trained to use whatever is needed for any emergency that may arise. We advocate keeping this in mind when packing your own first aid supplies and keeping your own first aid kit as compact and light as possible.

The following vaccinations are recommended:

• Hepatitis A
• Typhoid
• Diphtheria
• Tetanus
• Polio

This list is not absolute and it is important you should see your GP, surgery or travel clinic for latest recommendations and to ensure you are up to date on necessary vaccinations.

There are different types of altitude sickness. Although our acclimatisation regime ensures that everybody enjoys the best possible chance of getting high on the mountain, altitude related problems can happen. The most common of this is high altitude sickness (AMS – Acute Mountain Sickness).
Symptoms for this can include headaches, nausea and vomiting.

This sounds quite dramatic but generally this is just the process your body naturally goes through to adjust to the higher altitudes and the reduced partial pressure of the atmosphere. For some people the acclimatisation process takes a little longer than others. For our guides this is all part and parcel of ascending a 6,000m peak and, although we assess each client’s personal situation carefully, we also further consider the compounding effects of dehydration brought on by excessive vomiting and loss of appetite.

AMS might sound frightening but our guides are fully trained (and highly experienced) in helping relieve your personal symptoms and providing advice on how to best proceed.

In most cases AMS can be avoided by the following: drink plenty of water, walk slowly, stay warm and eat well – and listen and talk to your guides.

We recommend that you familiarise yourself with the various effects that altitude can cause. During your pre-climb briefing, we will describe altitude sickness to you in detail, and advise you how to cope with it.

The most important thing is not to fear it, but to respect it and to know how to deal with it and more importantly tell your guides how you feel. Our guides have seen every condition that the mountain produces, and they will always know how to deal with problems.

HACE and HAPE rarely occur on Ama Dablam and our guides are fully trained in recognition of the onset of these problems and will deal with them at the first sign of their development.

We recommend you come armed with a course of Diamox on this expedition, though we do not recommend that take you these as a prophylactic during the trek or climb. We view Diamox as a treatment drug rather than a preventative medicine.  Most adventure medics give similar advice, however we do appreciate this can be confusing, as many GPs (who aren’t necessarily mountaineers) do suggest taking it as a prophylactic.

Here at 360 we pride ourselves on designing all our itineraries with acclimatisation front and centre and this expedition has been carefully designed to allow for your body to adjust to the altitude gradually, safely and comfortably. However, if you find that you are still having problems adjusting to the altitude (see our FAQ on Altitude Sickness) then your expedition leader or medic will recommend the correct course of action regarding taking Diamox.

It is far preferable to take Diamox if and when needed during the course of the expedition. If you are already taking it and then start having altitude related problems you are left with few options but to descend to a more comfortable altitude which sadly often means that the summit is not attainable.

Furthermore, Diamox is a diuretic, meaning you will have to drink a lot of fluid to prevent dehydration. Of course, the upshot of this is you’ll have to pee more which means you’ll probably be having to get up more in the night and take cover behind rocks during the day. Another quite common side-effect is that it can cause your extremities to “buzz and tingle” including your fingers, toes and lips which can feel quite unsettling.  Other side-effects can include dizziness and light headedness with loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. Although all these side-effects are manageable when you have symptoms of altitude sickness, we personally believe it is counter-intuitive to take it unless necessary.

Of course, it is totally up to you, this is just our recommendation and we’re not doctors. If you do decide to take Diamox on the advice of your doctor then please do let your leader know in situ so they are aware of this. We also suggest you take the drug for a couple of days a few weeks before travelling so you can experience the symptoms before taking them during the trek.

If a climber needs to leave early arrangements can be made with the assistance our 360 Guide. Additional costs (transport, hotels flights etc.) will be incurred by the climber but our guides will be able to assist in every detail of your departure.

All our guides are in communication with each other by radio. In the vast majority of cases of emergency rescue the problems can be attributed to slow acclimatisation or altitude and if so the solution is immediate descent to lower altitudes. Our 360 guide and local crew are very experienced in dealing with any problems that may arise. Our guides are either doctors or are qualified with the highest standard of wilderness first aid qualifications and can handle any emergency to the highest level of competency without assistance if necessary.

A rucksack is worn by the climber at all times. During the trek into Base Camp and for the short climbs around the peak the content of the rucksack should include: a fleece (when taking breaks or the weather changes) a full set (top and bottom) of waterproofs, sufficient water for the day, snacks, camera, personal medication and a head torch.

Your day to day rucksack should weigh no more than 3 – 4 kg and a rucksack of around 30 – 40 L capacity will more than suffice. This rucksack can be filled to the brim with extra stuff when you check in at the airport. Our guides for instance put their down jackets or a thick fleece and a pair of mountain socks in this bag so as to free up space in their hold luggage.

Once the load carrying between camps starts your load weight will increase to around 15kg. For these carries the focus is on moving up as many supplies to the higher camps as possible and your personal equipment may be reduced to just a head torch and Gortex jacket. Once the higher camp has been reached we secure a decent spot to store our provisions and return virtually weightless back down to sleep at the lower camp.

It is important that your rucksacks have an adjustable waist belt to transfer the weight of your daily load onto your hips and from here onto your legs (your strongest muscles) to do most of the carrying. Another handy feature would be a compartment in which to fit a Platypus/Camelbak or water bladder. Our initial hold luggage should be around 22 – 25kg.

Please review the equipment list. While all items are required there may be times when some of the items on the gear list may not be used (such as warm weather or changing conditions). The gear lists are created by the guides so that climbers are prepared to summit in any conditions.

The guides will check your equipment whilst in Kathmandu or Base Camp (if joining from another expedition) and will advise as to what is suitable or not.  A quick trip to the local gear shops may be needed to buy or rent the last essential items.

Our guides usually start the trek wearing long, lightweight trekking trousers and wicking (non-cotton) shirts. Long trousers are recommended as a deterrent to insects and to act as sun protection.

Ensure that you apply sun cream frequently, or buy a once a day product such as P20 if you’re not very good at remembering to apply it. Sun glasses are worn for most of the trek in as well as suitable sunhats.

The prevailing conditions on the trek will dictate what you will wear: if it is cold when you leave the camp in the morning then wear your fleece. As things warm up take advantage of the zipper system which most trekking clothing have and open and close the zips to adjust to your own preferred temperature. If you get too warm then take a layer off.

Waterproofs are needed on hand at all times. It is not unusual to be caught in an afternoon snowstorm anywhere on the mountain. Waterproofs should be Gortex material or similar.

Over the top of your clothing you will wear a climbing harness and you will be attached to a rope when conditions dictate.

On summit day it gets cold and temperatures of -20C are not unusual and -30 in extremes.

Typically our guides wear 2 sets of base layers (long johns), a thick fleece layer (top and bottom) and then on the legs insulated climbing salopettes. On the upper torso the same layers plus a down jacket are worn. As the wind picks up near the summit ridge our guides will put on their wind proof layer to ward off the windchill. On their hands they’ll wear a thin layer of fleece working gloves with a thicker set of “ski gloves” or mittens over the top.

Alternatively in Autumn conditions a similar set of base layers can be worn under a full down suit. The suit is usually only worn on the actual summit day.

On summit day our guides’ heads are covered by a thermal beanie hat or a thick balaclava and the hood of their down jackets. On their feet the guides wear one pair of thin socks and one pair of thick inside their double boots.

Guides will also wear snow goggles on summit day.  Waterproofs are used as an invaluable wind shield to protect you from windchill when a strong wind blows.

Plastic boots are essential for climbing 6,000m peaks. You will only be using your plastic boots for the mountain phase of this climb. You will not be wearing them on the trek to the Base Camp nor for when doing the load carrying as high as Camp 1. Once we start our ascent properly we will leave Camp 1 wearing plastic boots.

These boots should be the double boot (with a soft inner and hard plastic shell) the basic model would be Scarpa Vega’s, Phantom 8000 or La Sportiva Spantiks. Temperatures high up the mountain are usually well below -20 and only plastic boots can withstand such conditions. Ensure that you have tried the boots on before you leave home and that you can wear a thin and a thick pair of socks in them and still be able to wriggle your toes, (for adequate circulation).

Crampons are worn when there has been lots of snowfall above Camp 2 and sometimes even above Camp 1. Your crampons are preferably of the easy “heel clip” variety (rather than the strap systems which are fiddly). It is necessary to use specialist technical climbing crampons as standard.

Trekking boots should be sturdy, waterproof, insulated against cold temperatures and offer adequate ankle support. In addition it is highly recommended that your boots are well worn in to prevent the formation of blisters. A range of suitable boots are on the market and further advice as to which brand names are available can be found online or at your local gear store.

They are essential and are worth their weight in gold on summit day. Our guides wear them on all evenings from the first camp up. We recommend a down jacket with at least 800 grams of down fill.

Sleeping bags should be rated within the -20C comfort zone. From the first camp upwards it is not unusual to experience frosty nights and a good night’s sleep is important to giving you the best chance to climb this mountain. And ensure you get a sleeping bag that has this temperature rating at this comfort zone rather than as its extreme zone.

Our guides take sleeping bags rated to well below -20C to ensure that they are warm at night. A four season sleeping bag can be enhanced by using an inner silk or fleece bag (or similar). The idea is to be as comfortable and warm as possible for the night and henceforth to ensure plenty of sleep for the arduous days ahead. Some climbers have found a “Bivouac bag” useful to increase the warmth of their bag. It is important to remember that down sleeping bags work by your own body heating the down that’s inside the bag.

Once you have warmed up the bag its down will retain the heat and ensure that you sleep at a temperature that’s your own body temperature. For best results it is best to wear as little as possible when inside your sleeping bag. Our guides will often only wear a set of thermals in their bag. It is important for the bag to trap the heat. By wearing multiple layers of clothing your clothing will trap this heat and your bag will not function properly.

It is possible from our local ground crew but we advocate the use of personal equipment whenever possible. This is particular important for the use of boots and high altitude clothing.

Casual dress is recommended for Kathmandu. Daytime temperatures are usually warm and shorts and t-shirts are fine. Evenings are generally cooler and a light fleece is recommended. A bag containing fresh clothes can be left in hotel storage ready for when you come back.

Please bear in mind that the Kathmandu-Lukla flight has a 15kg baggage allowance, excluding all hardgear.

All your mountain hardwear will be transported in blue barrels separately ahead of you by the porter team.

Ama Dablam is one of the most technically demanding of all our expeditions. It is also seen as the most exposed due to its free standing peak and the location of the 3 camps which are on its south west ridge. Ama Dablam is regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It offers some breathtaking summit views from the route up which include Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.

Porters are available to carry loads from Base Camp up to Camp three and also to carry stuff down from camps. Sometimes climbers choose to employ one porter between two, reducing the weight they have to carry by 10kg to make life a easier. 360 Expeditions will employ porters to assist in carrying loads down the mountain. This is done especially to bring down toilet and camping waste. In most cases porters are highly skilled Sherpa guides who will be climbing alongside you and assist in climbing the harder sections.

All toilet waste is bagged and tagged in especially allocated “poo bags”. We are required to carry down all toilet waste which is disposed of at Base Camp. Generally we carry the waste down in double plastic bags and early in the morning when it is still frozen. A toilet tent with a basic sit down toilet is set up at our mountain campsites.

Summit day will start in the early hours of the morning. From Camp 3 we head straight for the summit but there are some very steep (40+ degree) snow-ice sections. We have to then navigate past the Dablam (a notorious ice and snow section) and climb to the snow-capped summit. We then return late afternoon.

Ama Dablam is a technical climb. You should be comfortable ascending and descending on fixed lines, using crampons and ice axes. It is recommended that climbers have past rock and steep snow climbing experience on exposed terrain. To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. It is a huge advantage for climbers to be able to compentently climb Scottish 3 and/or French AD+ alpine routes. The terrain on Ama Dablam is exposed and steep and being comfortable climbing in this type of terrain will make progress much easier.

Climbers are expected to be in good physical condition. The better your physical shape the more you will be able to handle the demands of climbing the peak. This expedition is more arduous and physically demanding then other 360 expeditions as load carrying is done by the climbers themselves. Having a good level of fitness will allow you to enjoy the expedition far more and increase your chances of reaching the summit. Summit day can be up to 16 hours long.

The most that we are prepared to take on an expedition of this magnitude is 6 people.

You can always call our offices and one of guides will contact you. Generally about one month before your trip departure we mail a list of other team members to you.

The temperature at the top of the mountain can vary widely. Sometimes it is only a degree or two below freezing, but climbers should be prepared for possible temperatures as low as -30 Celsius, especially in conjunction with wind chill.

Low down on the mountain you can expect cold mornings (usually frosty). An afternoon snowstorm is not unusual at the lower altitudes.

Spring and autumn are the best times to climb as the weather and conditions are most favourable. On Ama Dablam autumn is particularly good as this time enjoys a lot less snowfall than springtime. Late autumn (November/December) is generally colder clearer and far more stable.

360 Expeditions will be booking flights on your behalf. We provide confirmation of flight times and departure terminal approximately eight weeks before your departure date. Please be aware that flight schedules are subject to change. Please ensure that you have checked flight details before setting out for your flight.

We are happy to make any arrangements scheduled outside of the trek dates: these may include personalised tours, extra hotel rooms, private airport pick-ups or arranging private rooms. Please indicate that your requirements on your booking form and we will contact you for the relevant arrangements.

You must carry individual travel insurance to take part in the expedition. We cannot take you on the mountain without proof of insurance.

It is your responsibility to ensure that you have the appropriate insurance for your intended trip. To include medical evacuation and coverage up to the maximum altitude of this trip.

Your insurance details are requested on the booking form, however this can be arranged at a later date. 360 Expeditions will be requesting your insurance details 8 weeks before your departure.

All foreigners, except Indians, must have a visa. Nepali embassies and consulates overseas issue visas with no fuss. You can also get one on the spot when you arrive in Nepal, at Kathmandu Airport. All tourist visas are multiple entry as standard. A Nepali visa is valid for entry for three to six months from the date of issue. Your passport must have at least six months of validity.

The 360 expedition training programs have been devised to be expedition specific. Use these as a guide but also feel free to contact us for individual advice on how to incorporate the best fitness program with your own lifestyle. High altitude mountaineering is about slack days of low activity followed by long days where every grain of stamina you have is called upon and every ounce of determination you process is necessary to reach your goal.

The essential idea in order to prepare for a mountain such as Ama Dablam is to increase the intensity of the exercise you do by small increments over 4 to 6 months before you leave for the expedition. Concentrate on cardiovascular work-outs during the initial weeks by taking short runs when time allows and try to spend at least 2 weekends a month going on long duration walks (longer than 6 hrs) carrying a rucksack of around 15kg in hilly terrain if possible. As you get stronger increase this rate of exercise and the duration by walking every weekend and running 5km every second day, for example.

A focused regime will not only prepare your body to carry minor loads but will harden your body against the big days on the mountain itself. In addition the weekend walks will help break in your boots and get you used to your equipment.In combination this will pay dividends when you reach Base Camp because even though you can’t train for altitude your body will be ready for arduous days and you will be familiar with how to best use your equipment, both adding to you enjoying and appreciating the mountain all the more.

Generally deposits are due when you book as we need in turn to book the international flights well in advance. The full amount should be paid four months prior to departure. However having said that, our aim is to get you to the top of this mountain and we understand that personal financial situations can vary. Please contact our friendly office crew to discuss a suitable payment plan should you find raising the funds to be difficult. We have been in your shoes after all and go by the motto of where there’s a will there’s a way.

Please read 360 expeditions terms and conditions careful before you depart. 360 expeditions highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits 360 expeditions must adhere to a stringent refund policy.

Our local crew work extremely hard to assure that your expedition runs well. Although tipping is not compulsory once someone sees the hard work the crew provides tipping seems the least one can do to say thank you. As a general rule we suggest around $150 per client for the entire local crew to be shared amongst them. With that, a summit bonus of between $300 – $500 for the Sherpa Guide that accompanies you personally for your ascent. Tipping the 360 Guide is at to your discretion.

The Nepali rupee (Rs) is divided into 100 paisa (p). Except in Solu Khumbu and on the Annapurna treks, changing foreign money is likely to be very difficult if not impossible. Bring enough money for the whole trek and don’t count on being able to change Rs 1000 notes except in Namche Bazaar and Jomsom. Away from major centres, changing a 1,000Rs note can be very difficult, so it is always a good idea to keep a stash of small denomination notes.

Even in Kathmandu, many small businesses, especially rickshaw and taxi drivers, simply don’t have sufficient spare money to allow them the luxury of carrying masses of change.

The amount of money you will need depends on how many presents you wish to buy or how much you wish to drink when you come off the hill.

As a basic rule of thumb $400 USD should be more than adequate for any post expedition spending. The only cash you’ll need to consider taking with you on the mountain is the local crew tips. (See tipping section above.) And for any additional snacks and soft drinks you wish to purchase from the Base Camp facilities. Additional supplies can be quite expensive though as all this is brought in by mules.

In Nepal telephones and internet access are readily available in most towns. Our guides will carry satellite phones in the mountains. The quality of the reception varies from location to location but is generally poor on the mountain.