Great Trango Tower

The short answer to this question is yes. Pakistan has had its share of political troubles but in recent years the British Foreign Office relaxed its advice for travellers. The Balti people are some of the friendliest most hospitable mountain people in the world. Don’t expect to find the troubles of the past, gone are the famous Balti strikes and it is wonderfully clean both on the mountain and in the city.

You are not travelling in any risky zones, so no measures are necessary for this expedition. If we have to travel through certain sections of the Karakoram Highway (KKH) then police might accompany you at some places, though this is due to protocol rather than necessity.

We stay 3 nights in a safe, modern and centrally located hotel.

While in the cities or up to the road head you will find there is mobile reception and you can use mobile networks. After that, the guide will have a satellite phone and this will be the only source of communication.

Do note that this sat phone will be for emergencies and expedition use only. Many climbers prefer to source and bring their own personal satellite phone to keep in touch with friends and family back home.

Rolfe Oostra (UIML), who is leading this expedition, has been leading expeditions globally for more than 30 years. He has led expeditions to five of the 8,000m peaks: Manaslu (summit) in 2013; Mount Everest in 2007 (North Col), 2015, 2016 (summit) and 2019; Lhotse (no summit) in 2016; Gasherbrum II (summit) in 2022 as well as achieving back-to-back summits in 24 hours on Cho Oyu in 2016 in 2018.

He has led five unsupported expeditions to technically difficult 7,000m peaks and has guided more than seventy expeditions to 6,000m peaks (including Great Trango Tower, Ama Dablam and the Peruvian Andes). He has also completed the Bass version of the Seven Summits numerous times.

Leading an expedition of this calibre demands a thorough familiarity not only with the mountain’s unique complexities but also a complete understanding of a client’s individual requirements. With almost 30 years’ experience in this leadership role, it is safe to say that Rolfe has what it takes to confidently deal with the demands this career entails

Our attempt of the Great Trango Tower will by via the classic NW Face route pioneered by Americans Andy Selters and Scott Woolums in 1984.

Alpine grade: D+/TD

We include a description of our successful ascent of our proposed route in July 2017 to give you an idea of the terrain we will likely be climbing, the climbing difficulties and possible objective hazards.

Camp 1 (4-5 hours) The start of the route to camp 1 is the obvious gully directly above basecamp. The route to camp one is straight-forward with little technical difficulty (apart from the odd grade 1 scramble) but can be dangerous due to rockfall later in the day when warmer temperatures release stones which can fall onto the route, an early start is essential. Climb 800 meters up the broad ice-filled gully (reminiscent of the Canelleta found on the normal route of Aconcagua) to the large boulder just below the Nameless tower. (NT) This boulder has a wide zig-zag crack running through it and has several small tent platforms dug out beneath it. It provides valuable protection against rock and ice-fall and its position is marked by a huge cairn. Camp one is at 4750 meters..

Camp 2 (5-6 hrs or 5-8 hrs). From camp, we continue up the gully on the RHS of NT. Climb towards the obvious notch in the ridge separating NT from the GTT. Before reaching the notch, you will notice a series of slabs and rock walls on your RHS leading to an obvious tower called Little Trango (LT).

Continue climbing scree right up to the base of the slabs and climb 1 pitch of solid rock (F 4+). On top of the slab the ice begins. Initially the ice is around 50 degrees for 3 to 4 pitches but eventually kicks up to 70 to 80 degrees for 1 pitch. Above the steep icy headwall the angle drops back to 50 degrees.

Climb well away from the obvious LHS rock-wall as this is lose and spits out rocks continuously, until you reach the obvious broad ridge. Climb the ridge on the RHS for 3 to 4 pitches until you reach a second 80-degree ice-covered headwall. Climb this for one pitch until you reach a prominent spur below Little Trango. (5320 meters) This is a great place to camp or alternatively you could camp higher (as we did on our second attempt) on the North-west ridge (5570 meters).  If we chose to camp higher traverse around the base of LT (on the RHS) and continue for 250 meters up the obvious snow-slope (40 degrees) right to the well-defined ridge. There are several tiny niches amongst the precariously balanced boulders on the LHS as you reach the ridge where you might spend an anxious night. The views from the ridge to the peaks of the upper Baltoro are incredible. Beware that the NW ridge is heavily corniced.

Summit day (12-14 hrs.) Continue along the heavily corniced NW ridge until you reach a small plateau. Directly opposite you is the NE face which plummets over 3000 meters onto the Dungee glacier. This is the wall the 2 Aussies base-jumped from in the 1980’s. The small plateau gradually steepens to the summit snow-slopes. Move well away from the ridge onto the snow-slopes which kick up to 70 degrees for 3 pitches. After the steep stuff, you move up to the heavily crevassed slopes below the summit ridge. Zig zag between the crevasses and delicately cross several snow-bridges keeping in line with the summit. (Prominent snow pyramid between the rocky east and west summits). Traverse to the LHS below the summit pyramid to a heavily corniced ridge. Climb along ridge 2 pitches to where the angle kicks up to 70 degrees again. (one pitch). At the top of this pitch you are on the summit ridge properly but the true summit is still 50 meters away to the east. Dig deep and begin to crab across steep ice on the North side of the ridge (the south side sports a huge cornice) on 60-degree ice. Hit the summit, take those photos, thank the sponsors, and get the hell out of Dodge. Descend to camp one.

Climbers must be able to independently climb grade D alpine routes, be competent on steep mixed terrain (rock and ice) wearing crampons and comfortably lead grade F5 on rock. This is a long multi day alpine route with several steep +70º pitches.

Contrary to many guided, heavily supported climbs on 6,000-meter mountains, an ascent of the Great Trango Tower requires the climbing team to be much more self-sufficient. There are no high-altitude porters helping with daily routines above basecamp nor is there any fixed line. Each climber will have to cook his own food and melt snow for water in high camps as well as carry their own loads to the higher camps.

We aim to take the same hybrid expedition/alpine climbing approach to climbing this mountain as we practice on Aconcagua and Elbrus.  This expedition is not supported by Sherpa or high-altitude porters and the onus will be on the team to carry their own equipment to the higher camps.

A typical ascent profile looks like this.

1. Carry/acclimatisation day to C1 (4,750 m) from BC, descend to BC to sleep.
2. Climb to C1 and occupy C1 for one night.
3. Climb to C2 (two places possible at 5320 m and 5,570 m respectively.)
4. Summit push (6,280 m) and descend to C1.
5. Descend to BC and rest.
6. Contingency day.

The Great Trango Tower, was first climbed by Americans Dennis Hennek (team leader), James Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell, and Kim Schmitz, on July 21th , 1977 by the West Pillar.

We employ both Balti trekking guides, cooks and basecamp managers for the trek into basecamp and for the ascent we allow a 2 climbers to 1 guide ratio.

We limit this expedition to two climbers. The only exception to this is if the team are an organised climbing club or a large group of friends who wish to climb together, then more guides will be employed to sustain the 2 to 1 ratio.

Please review the kit list for this expedition. While all items are required there may be times when some of the items on the gear list may not be used (such as warm weather or changing conditions). The lists are created by the guides so that climbers are prepared to summit in any conditions. The equipment list will also advise our recommended brands to consider using, based on our experience. Please do get in touch with the 360 team if you have any questions.

We advocate the use of personal equipment whenever possible, and this is particularly important for the use of boots and high-altitude clothing.

However, things you don’t currently have can be hired cost effectively from our partners at Outdoor Hire (in the UK) or similar specialist rental outlets in your nearest city.

Our guides usually start the trek wearing long, lightweight trekking trousers and wicking (non-cotton) shirts. Long trousers are recommended to act as sun protection. Shorts can also be worn on the initial few days of the road trip and for walks around Skardu as the temperature can be warm. Ensure that you apply sun protection frequently. Sunglasses are worn for most of the trek as well as sunhats.

The prevailing conditions on the trek will dictate what you will wear. If it is cold when you leave the camp in the morning, then wear your base layer plus soft shell. As things warm up take advantage of the zipper system which most trekking clothing must adjust to your own preferred temperature. If you get too warm, take a layer off.

Waterproofs are needed on hand, especially during the acclimatisation phase of the expedition. The Karakoram creates its own weather system, and it is not unusual to be caught out in an afternoon snowstorm low down on the mountain. Waterproofs should be Gortex material or similar and be always carried with you.

We will adopt a hybrid Alpine/Expedition strategy for this route. This means that we will do two load carries to camp 1. The first time we only carry a load to C1 and will not sleep there. This has the double benefit of both helping with our acclimatisation plus we can carry around 15 kg of equipment to this camp (mostly technical climbing equipment, double boots and high-altitude food and fuel) which we cache there. The following day we will go up again but this time it’s only a one-way trip as we remain at C1 for the night. For this climb we will carry around the same weight as the previous day (mostly sleeping bag, sleeping mat, some clothes etc). Above C1 we climb alpine style but only take the absolute essentials for the ascent to the summit and 1 night in camp 2.

In general, climbing packs on 6,000m peaks are relatively light. You will likely be carrying 18 – 20 kg on the two occasions to camp one, though less on the trek into base camp and on summit day. While on the summit push you should be prepared to carry your personal gear for the day and some of camping equipment. Your rucksack for this part of the expedition will weigh around 10 -12 kg.

There are two distinct types of footwear on this trek.

The boots used for the trekking phase to BC should be sturdy, waterproof, insulated against cold temperatures and offer adequate ankle support. (Crampon compatible B2 boots.) In addition, it is highly recommended that your boots are well worn in to prevent the formation of blisters. A range of suitable boots are on the market and further advice as to which brand names are available and their relative pros and cons can be found online or at your local gear store. If you are still stuck then please don’t hesitate to get in touch with our 360 office for advice.

Double boots are essential for climbing 6,000m peaks. You will only be using your double boots for the entire mountain phase on this expedition. These boots should have a soft insulating inner bootie and a hard-plastic exterior outer boot with a high insulated exterior gaiter covering both. Either La Sportiva G2 SMs, Scarpa Phantom 6000s or La Sportiva Spantiks. Temperatures high on the mountain are usually well below -20°C and only double boots can withstand such conditions. Ensure that you have tried the boots on before you leave home and that you can wear a thin and a thick pair of socks in them and still be able to freely move your toes.

Crampons are worn for the majority of the time you spend above basecamp and for the actual summit day itself. Your crampons should preferably be of the easy “heel clip” variety (rather than the strap systems which can be fiddly). It is not necessary to use specialist technical climbing crampons, standard 12 point all round crampons such as those from Grivel will do the job very well.

The content of your rucksack for the trekking phase should include: a fleece or light down jacket (for when taking breaks or weather changes) a full set (top and bottom) of waterproofs, sufficient water for the day, snacks, camera equipment, personal medication, mini first aid kit, sun hat, sun-cream, sunglasses, a warm hat and gloves and a head torch. Your day-to-day rucksack will weigh no more than 4-6 kg. For the trek the rest of your gear can go in your kit bag and/or larger rucksack to be carried by the porters or mules.

For the mountain phase include additional items such as sleeping bags, down clothing and personal climbing equipment which are to be carried between camps both on the ascent and descent.

Your rucksack can be filled to the brim with extra stuff (socks, down jackets etc.) before checking in at the airport to save weight and space in your hold luggage.

Our main expedition luggage will be carried to basecamp by porters and/or mules.

A good all-round size, approximately 80L, will accommodate both phases of this expedition. It is worth considering expedition specific rucksacks rather than travel rucksacks, and it’s important that your rucksack has an adjustable waist belt to transfer the weight of your daily load onto your hips and from here onto your legs so that the strongest muscles do most of the carrying and that the shoulder straps are sufficiently padded for extra comfort. Another handy feature would be a compartment in which to fit a Camelbak or water bladder. A rucksack this size is recommended as on the climb you will need to carry the above items plus your own sleeping bag, down clothing, sleeping mat and personal climbing equipment to the higher camps and on the descent.

Sleeping bags should be rated from -20 to -40°C. From the first camp upwards, it is not unusual to experience frosty nights and a good night’s sleep is important to giving you the best chance to climb this mountain. And ensure you get a sleeping bag that has this temperature rating at this comfort zone rather than as its extreme zone. Our guides take sleeping bags rated to well below -20°C to ensure that they are warm at night. A 5-season sleeping bag can be enhanced by using an inner silk or fleece bag (or similar).

The idea is to be as comfortable and warm as possible for the night and henceforth to ensure plenty of sleep for the arduous days ahead. Some climbers have found the use of a “Bivouac bag” helpful to increase the warmth of their bag.

It is important to remember that down sleeping bags work by your own body heating the down that’s inside the bag. Once you have warmed up the bag, the down will retain the heat and ensure that you sleep at a temperature that’s your own body temperature.

On summit day it gets cold and temperatures of -20C are not unusual. Typically, our guide wears two sets of base layers (long johns), a fleece mid layer (top and bottom) and thin down jacket or windstopper jacket on the torso. A thick down jacket is kept in the rucksack and used when stopping for belaying or when the weather becomes colder.

On their hands they’ll wear a thin layer of fleece or silk gloves over which a thicker set of gloves are worn. A set of mittens (down recommended) is kept in the rucksack should it get colder.. Hand warmers inside the mittens are also recommended.

Their heads are covered by a thermal “beanie” hat or a thick balaclava and the hood of their down jackets. On their feet the guides wear one thin sock and one thick sock. Foot warmers recommended.

Over the top of their clothing system, they will wear a climbing harness and you will be attached to a rope for high passes/summit day.

On summit day your guides will also wear snow goggles.

Casual dress that respects the local Islamic culture is recommended for Islamabad and Skardu. Daytime temperatures are usually warm and shorts and t-shirts are fine. Evenings are generally cooler and a light fleece is recommended. A bag containing fresh clothes can be left in the hotel storage ready for your return.

The best weather is found during the period June to August when it is usually quite fair, dry and stable. Daytime temperatures are pleasantly warm in the valleys (20-30°C) whilst cool to very cold (especially with wind chill) high on the mountain. Night-time temperatures are cold (possibly as low as minus 20°C) and you should make sure you have a very warm sleeping bag. A good down jacket and good quality mitts are highly recommended.

The coldest night time temperature at camp 2 might get as low as -25°C with windchill. You will not be climbing in these low temperatures but remain inside your sleeping bag inside your tent.

To climb the Great Trango Tower it helps to be as fit as possible. Hopefully by the time you book you will have a good understanding of your level of fitness and how you cope with altitude and with the discomforts of an expedition of this nature. This expedition is gruelling and will be physically demanding. We have rated it as P5, T5 for level of fitness needed. Please check our fitness chart and recommended training regime.

High altitude mountaineering is about slack days of low activity followed by long days where every grain of stamina and every ounce of determination you possess is necessary to reach your goal.

Your best bet to prepare for a mountain such as GTT is to increase the intensity of your exercise in small increments over 8-12 months before your expedition. Concentrate on cardiovascular workouts during the initial weeks and try to spend at least 2 weekends a month going on long duration walks (longer than 8 hrs) carrying a rucksack of around 15kg and aiming for 800-1,000 meters of ascent. As you get stronger, increase this rate of exercise and the duration. eg. by walking every weekend and running 5km every second day.

We’d also encourage you to increase your climbing efficiency and use of climbing equipment by undertaking ALPINE climbs in the Scottish Highlands, Pyrenees or Alps. This will increase your body’s ability to cope with the extra demands of these activities and also allows you to get familiar with the equipment you will be using on the mountain.

A focused regime will not only prepare your body for carrying minor loads but also for the big days on the mountain itself, it will help break in your boots and get you used to your equipment for the trekking stages of the expedition.

A training plan / regime pay dividends when you reach base camp because even though you can’t train for altitude your body will be ready for arduous days and you will be familiar with how to best use your equipment, both adding to you being able to enjoy and appreciate the mountain all the more.

Along with the tips above, an example training plan can be found at the end of the expedition brochure. We also work in partnership with the brilliant team at Joe’s Basecamp – check the thorough advice offered on their website. Several excellent training plans can also be found online to prepare you for this ascent – we highly recommend those designed by UpHill Athlete.

Pakistani cuisine, although delicious, may not always be to everyone’s taste. As such, during the trek and at basecamp we have our own chefs who create appetising, locally sourced and healthy dishes in a full catering kitchen.

Altitude can often affect your appetite, and so we aim for the food on the trek to stimulate your appetite and keep you going. The meals on the mountain are excellent – freshly cooked and nutritious, as well as varied. Local ingredients are used, and if you have any dietary requirements do let us know beforehand and the local team will do their best to cater to your needs. The menu is designed to fill you with carbohydrate-loaded meals to give you plenty of energy for the trek, as well as being well-balanced. You’ll have tea and coffee, as well as drinking water, along with the meals and in camp. You can expect the trek menu to consist of the following, or similar:

Breakfast:  Local breads (paratha), jams and honey, porridge and/or cooked eggs.

Lunch:  crackers, cheese, sardines, biscuits.

Afternoon tea: pakora, samosa, French fries.

Dinner: Soup, rice, daal, vegetables (potato, cabbage, peas, cauliflower, carrot, etc), chapatis and salad. Fresh meat, usually chicken, is sometimes available and at other times tinned meat is used.

Dessert: custard, jelly and tinned fruit.

Above basecamp, you will boil water to cook the “boil in the bag” meals. These ready meals are of the highest standard and come in a huge variety of flavours.

Snacks of sweets, chocolate bars and nuts will also be available, but you can of course bring any of your favourite snacks with you to top these up. Choose high-energy goodies to give you a boost on those longer days!

Above basecamp you will be expected to use gas stoves to boil water to cook the “boil in the bag” meals and melt sufficient ice to serve as drinking water for the following day. The ready meals are of the highest standard and come in a huge variety of flavours. Appetite is likely to be reduced as we ascend higher, but we aim to cater for every personal taste with a variety of meals to encourage essential fuel loading.

Absolutely, please inform the office of your specific allergies or intolerances and we will ensure that these are considered on the trek and that the local teams have all of the information necessary.

As in Islamabad and Skardu, once on the trail to basecamp it is highly recommended that you stick to treated rather than tap water or drinking from streams. We provide sufficient boiled water at the beginning and end of each trekking day. You can also bring your own water treatment solution.

We will provide teas and coffees at mealtimes on the trek and at basecamp but if you want sodas, bottled waters, specialty coffees, or drinks outside of mealtimes we ask that you purchase them yourself. This is an option for the cities, towns and first part of the trek.

We do provide a variety of snacks alongside the meals on the mountain, but we want to make sure everyone has the food that they need. On an expedition such as this, it’s always great to have your favourite snacks, particularly for early, cold mornings, or longer days.

Getting lots of calories is hugely important, so go with Gu packs, shot blocks, nuts, Snickers bars, cheese, etc… whatever it is that you know you can eat when you don’t want to eat! Getting speciality and familiar food can be difficult in Pakistan so it’s best you bring what you love from home.

Also, we recommend to bring a good supply of cough drops or hard candy as you might like them in the dry air. We’ll have some for the team but people go through them quickly!

Ample water is continuously available during the trek and at basecamp, as are hot drinks, soups and the occasional canned beverage. You will be able to refill at any time from the water supply provided in both the kitchen tent and the dining tent (hot water flasks 24 hours per day).

On the summit push your Guide will carry extra flasks of hot tea in addition to your own water supply. The use of stoves and cooking equipment will be demonstrated to you by your Guide before this happens.

For your stay in towns and cities and for the road journey to Skardu (if taken) filtered, bottled water is provided. On the trek, we will use locally sourced drinking water from streams, springs or nearby glacier. These are usually fresh being topped up from meltwater above or by rainfall, but we also increase their purity by treating the water with purification chemicals or by boiling it. We ensure the water is as pure as possible. At the camps there is a continuous supply of hot water for you to make hot drinks and lunches and dinners usually commence with a soup. Further, in towns ample soft drinks are available at shops, hotels and restaurants.

We stay at safe, centrally-located hotels. Our choice of hotels offer comfortable rooms, classy on-site restaurants and quiet areas just a stones throw away from the bustle of Islamabad’s city centre and many of the cultural sites which feature on any visitor’s list of things to see.

We’ll arrange visits to some of these cultural highlights when in town, as well as a visit to Rawalpindi, the twin city of Islamabad.

We are happy to make any arrangements scheduled outside of the trek dates: these may include personalised tours, extra hotel rooms, private airport pick-ups, early arrivals and late departures. We can also arrange private rooms. Please indicate your requirements on your application form or speak to the office beforehand and we will assist with the relevant arrangements and advise on any additional costs.

The very nature of climbing a remote,6000m peak is risky. Although there are risks associated with climbing any mountain whether it is Kilimanjaro, Mont Blanc or Aconcagua, the risks of climbing in the Karakoram are considerably greater primarily due to its remoteness, extreme altitude and weather conditions. Physical, mental and technical preparation will go a long way towards a safe ascent.

Furthermore, our Western guide and Balti support crew are trained in the use of medical oxygen, Gamow bags and specialized wilderness first aid equipment and medicine which we take on all our itineraries. We also carry satellite phones and radios to ensure proper communications with the outside world and between camps. In fact, we are often the first port of call when other teams have an emergency on the mountain.

Your guide is in constant communication with basecamp via radio.  In most cases of emergency rescue the problems can be attributed to slow acclimatisation or altitude and, if so, the solution is immediate descent to lower altitudes. Your guide is very experienced in dealing with any problems that may arise and our leaders have the highest standard of wilderness first aid qualifications and can handle emergencies to the highest level of competency. We also have a fully qualified high-altitude medical professional supporting the team remotely.

The likelihood of getting altitude related problems are dramatically reduced on this expedition due to our carefully designed acclimatisation strategy. We have years of experience in dealing with altitude and its related problems and have devised an ascent strategy which caters for a broad spectrum of individual altitude adaptation.

Still, it is important to understand there are different types of altitude sickness and that, at times, altitude related problems can happen, and we must be able to recognise the symptoms if they occur.

The most common of these is high altitude sickness (AMS – Acute Mountain Sickness). Symptoms can vary, but generally this is just the process your body naturally goes through to adjust to the higher altitudes and the reduced partial pressure of the atmosphere. For some people the acclimatisation process takes a little longer than others. For our guides this is all part and parcel of ascending to these altitudes.

Our experienced support team will be assessing each climber’s personal situation carefully. By carefully observation and communication, guides can quickly determine possible symptoms and are on hand to advise and assist.

Apart from a gain in altitude, further factors which contribute to the development of AMS symptoms are an insufficient intake of water or ascending too quickly.

Your guide and incredible local team will be on hand throughout and will remind you to drink plenty of water, walk slowly, stay warm and eat well.

We recommend that you familiarise yourself with the various affects that altitude can cause. During your pre-climb briefing we will describe altitude sickness to you in detail and advise you how to cope with it. The most important thing is not to fear it, but to respect it and to know how to deal with it and, more importantly, tell your leaders how you feel.

The severe forms of altitude sickness, HACE and HAPE, are extremely unlikely to occur on this expedition. However, our Leaders and Sherpa team are fully trained in recognition of the onset of these problems and will deal with them at the first sign of their development.

We recommend you come armed with a course of Diamox or other high-altitude drug on this expedition, though we do not recommend that take you these as a prophylactic during the trek or climb. We view Diamox as a treatment drug rather than a preventative medicine. Most adventure medics give similar advice, however we do appreciate this can be confusing, as many GPs (who aren’t necessarily mountaineers) do suggest taking it as a prophylactic.

Here at 360 we pride ourselves on designing all our itineraries with acclimatisation front and centre and this expedition has been carefully designed to allow for your body to adjust to the altitude gradually, safely and comfortably. However, if you find that you are still having problems adjusting to the altitude (see our FAQ on Altitude Sickness) then your expedition leader or medic will recommend the correct course of action regarding taking Diamox.

During the ascent, we advocate that each team member carries these drugs in the same place (i.e. top LH pocket of your climbing jacket) so that if an emergency should arise then the guide or fellow team member can locate them easily.

It is far preferable to take Diamox if and when needed during the course of the expedition. If you are already taking it and then start having altitude related problems you are left with few options but to descend to a more comfortable altitude which sadly often means that the summit is not attainable.

Furthermore, Diamox is a diuretic, meaning you will have to drink a lot of fluid to prevent dehydration. Of course, the upshot of this is you’ll have to pee more which means you’ll probably be having to get up more in the night and take cover behind rocks during the day. Another quite common side-effect is that it can cause your extremities to “buzz and tingle” including your fingers, toes and lips which can feel quite unsettling. Other side-effects can include dizziness and light headedness with loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. Although all these side-effects are manageable when you have symptoms of altitude sickness, we personally believe it is counter-intuitive to take it unless necessary.

Of course, it is totally up to you, this is just our recommendation and we’re not doctors. If you do decide to take Diamox on the advice of your doctor then please do let your leader know in situ so they are aware of this. We also suggest you take the drug for a couple of days a few weeks before travelling so you can experience the symptoms before taking them during the trek.

None are currently required for entry, but the following vaccinations are recommended for travel to Pakistan:

• Hepatitis A
• Typhoid
• Diphtheria
• Tetanus
• Polio

This list is not absolute and inoculation requirements can change frequently so it is important you visit your GP or local travel clinic for the latest recommendations and to ensure you are up to date on necessary vaccinations. A health certificate regarding COVID-19 may be required.

We advocate a self-help principle on this expedition for minor medical problems.If you have a blister developing, for example, then please stop, take off your boot and treat it before it becomes a problem.

We would recommend your own first aid kit should contain:

Diamox, or other high-altitude drug, enough for duration of expedition; a basic blister kit, plasters, antiseptic, sun protection, your own personal medication (your luggage might not get to camp before you and so you may not be able to take your medicine according to the regime you are used to), basic pain relief (paracetamol /aspirin/ibuprofen,) and a personal course of antibiotics – two different types are preferable, as back up. Generally, the best approach to take when packing your first aid kit is to include such basic medications as if you would on a family or personal holiday.

Your guide will carry a very comprehensive first aid kit that contains a wide range of supplies and medications. They are fully trained to use whatever is needed for any emergency that may arise. We advocate keeping this in mind when packing your own first aid supplies and keeping your own first aid kit as compact and light as possible.

Yes, helicopters are available for rescue if weather and logistics permits. Helicopters will of course make rescues and evacuations far quicker and seamless, but we always plan and continue to plan to be self-sufficient if outside help is unavailable due to logistics and bad weather.

We take state of the art medical and rescue equipment with us and ensure all our staff on the mountain have current first aid and/or medical qualifications and have our own expedition medical specialist on standby for the duration of this expedition.

Evacuation in the region is handled solely by the army helicopters, which operate from the Skardu army base. In the case of an evacuation, climbers would be flown to Skardu Airport, where the climber/passenger is then taken over by Mehdi to Islamabad.

In the event the evacuation service is needed, we would liaise with your insurance company in the first instance via our local ground crew though depending on the severity of the situation the helicopter would be dispatched immediately.

It is imperative that all climbers on this have solid insurance cover that covers for a full rescue situation. In the event of an evacuation a bill will be issued to either you directly or your insurance company. In anticipation of a potential evacuation, we would advise you contact your bank prior to the expedition to let them know you are going to be in Pakistan and to please not prevent any payments on the card in relation to Askari Aviation (Pvt) Ltd.

We require all climbers on the expedition to sign a waiver to confirm they agree to pay for the costs of a helicopter rescue in the event of any injury or evacuation procedure, regardless of the outcome.

It is your responsibly to check with your insurance company all the ins and outs of a rescue and ensure they understand how rescues work in Pakistan, and to ensure that your next of kin is in understanding of this agreement in the worst case scenario.

The 360 team (both in situ and from the main 360 office) will be on hand throughout any evacuation process – to correspond with your insurance and your family where necessary.

All our Guides and Balti crew have attained the necessary qualifications and training needed to deal not only with emergencies but also to maintain a healthy expedition from day one. For this expedition we will be bringing comprehensively supplied medical kits, emergency oxygen and Gamow bags as well as state of the art communication equipment. On the mountain our Expedition Leaders carry sufficient medical equipment to deal with localised first aid scenarios and at basecamp we have sufficient supplies to deal with longer lasting medical problems.

If a climber needs to leave early for whichever reason, medical or personal, your guide will deal with the matter with utmost competency and discretion. Further arrangements will be made with the assistance of our 360 team in Skardu and Europe to arrange every detail of the journey back from the mountain. Additional costs (transport, hotels, flights etc.) might be incurred by the climber but our 360 team will be able to assist in every detail of your departure.

CKNP (Central Karakorum National Park) is responsible for sanitation of campsites  they collect a fee from all groups to keep the area clean to finance their waste removal operation.

Sanitary toilet facilities are provided on the trek and at basecamp. The waste is carried out on mules or porters and disposed of according to current sanitation and health regulations.

Above ABC, basic toilet facilities are provided – though you’ll find that your need to use the toilet will be less frequent at altitude. You will need to bring up sufficient toilet paper from ABC to cater for your individual requirements.

International flights are not included with this expedition however we are more than willing to assist you with every detail of the journey to Pakistan. We will, for example, be able to advise you of the weight restrictions imposed by various airlines and recommend quality airlines.

Booking your own air travel allows you to have the flexibility to use frequent flyer miles as well as manage your luggage weight.

Please let us know your travel arrangements to and from Islamabad, and if you will be arriving earlier than the noted start date.

For your own comfort, travel light. Normally, airlines restrict baggage to 15kg for the Skardu flight, but you will be wearing your climbing boots and one set of trekking clothes. Normally we will travel with two duffel bags, one will go on the plane and then the second duffel travels via the KKH to Skardu. Some items can be left at the Islamabad hotel for your return.

Yes, trip insurance is required for this expedition and it needs to cover the entire cost of the trip and include at a minimum, trip cancellation, trip interruption, medical expenses, repatriation, and evacuation for the entire length of the expedition.

Unforeseen hiccups are part of adventure travel both before and during the expedition and these can be very expensive, so every effort should be taken to account for them in advance.

Your insurance details are requested on the booking form; however, this can be arranged at a later date. 360 Expeditions will be requesting your insurance details 8 weeks before your departure. It is your responsibility to have adequate insurance, and you will not able to join this expedition without it.

Yes. Currently, UK, US citizens and most EU nationals need to purchase Visas in advance for Pakistan. Climbers of other nationalities should check with their local embassy. Passports must be valid for at least six months after the end date of the trip and have at least two blank pages. Costs vary between nationalities. The 360 office crew can assist you with the various documentation that may be required for some nationalities.

This process has been made easier by all Pakistani embassies to encourage tourism to the country. Specialised forms might be required for some but our 360 office team and our agents in Islamabad can assist you with this.

It is better to have more money than you need than not enough, while most things are covered on the trip once you land in Islamabad (check what’s included/what’s not included list for details) you will still need cash.

Generally, we recommend bringing US $500 -600 plus a credit card to cover all potential expenses, including an early departure, but it is unlikely that you will need all of this.

The cash that you need to bring includes money for staff tips (See the questions on tips below), to cover expenses for a potential early departure (not often, but occasionally this occurs) for miscellaneous expenses like non-group meals, shopping, drinks around Islamabad and Skardu (sodas, specialty coffees, bottled water, alcohol), charging of devices, and snacks (meals are covered).

Our team of Balti local crew, work extremely hard to ensure that your expedition runs well. While tipping is not compulsory, it is always very much appreciated and adds a real value to our team.

Unlike Nepal, where tips are all separated out into summit bonuses and crew tips, in Pakistan things operate slightly differently. Generally, we suggest a minimum of $300 per client for the entire local crew, to be shared amongst them.

Tipping the 360 Leader is entirely at your discretion.

We would advise you let your credit card company know you will be traveling so you can use your card (and not set off the fraud alert due to using the card in a foreign destination).

The local currency is the Pakistani rupee but American dollars are readily recognised and are easily converted to the local currency. Small denominations (1s, 5s, 10s and 20s) are better and although American dollars are accepted, you can change money into rupees at when you arrive in Islamabad. Rates are generally about the same and we haven’t yet encountered one that isn’t legitimate. Also, there are now quite a few ATMs around town where you can use your card to take out local cash at a good rate. It is much more difficult to change money, especially large sums, once you leave Skardu.

Generally, deposits are due when you book as we need in turn to book the international flights and permits well in advance. The full balance should be paid four months prior to departure. However, having said that, our aim is to get you to the top of this mountain and we understand that personal financial situations can vary. Please contact our friendly office crew to discuss a suitable payment plan should you find raising the funds to be difficult. We have been in your shoes after all and go by the motto of ‘where there’s a will there’s a way’!

Please read 360 Expeditions’ Terms and Conditions carefully before you depart. 360 Expeditions highly recommend trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, 360 Expeditions must adhere to a stringent refund policy.

We suggest picking up a local SIM card in Islamabad with a data package. Signal is reliable in Islamabad and Skardu and for the road trip on the KKH. Once on the trek to basecamp, service becomes unreliable, although it can sometimes pick up a low signal (though usually not enough to support data). You can buy a local SIM card in Islamabad. Your phone will need to be unlocked and you will need your passport to get a SIM card.

After we leave Askole the only communication possible is by satellite phone. We carry one as standard for every expedition and use it to update our 360 office on our progress and to pass on messages. The sat phone is available for emergency use but do bear in mind that his phone is an essential tool for emergencies and re-supply, and we allow limited personal talk time. Satellite phones are increasingly being bought by the climbers themselves for expeditions of this duration as this allows them to contact their family and friends whenever they want to. Cheap packages for satellite phone rental are also available in most western countries.

Your guide will be sending regular updates to the 360 offices to allow your family and friends to track your progress on social media.

The best place to reach a loved one is through our main 360 office. We try to organise a daily satellite call with the 360 Leader on the mountain to allow communication between the outside world and to keep our team updated with important developments occurring at home.