We all know how difficult it can be to know what boots to wear on an expedition. What are the grades? What brands are good? Do I need crampons… are just a few of the questions that you are most likely wanting to find answers for.
Our 360 guide Rolfe has saved the day! And has made the following useful guide for Boots and Crampons. Describing the different types, suggesting good examples and advising what boots/crampons combination should be worn on any given expedition.
Boots
B1
Description: All round four season walking boots, robustly constructed for long mountain days and scrambles and with cross-over potential for those looking to do a small amount of winter hill walking. The midsole is stiffened while uppers may be leather or fabric, often supported by a generous rubber rand or synthetic leather reinforcements. Combine only with C1 strap-on crampons which offer the best flex.
Terrain: A B1/C1 combination will be adequate for many UK winter fell walks and gentle snow plods.
Example: Berghaus Expeditor Ridge 2.0 Boots, Berghaus Explorer Ridge Plus GTX, Berghaus Hillwalker II GTX
B2
Description: The best bet for regular winter hill walkers tackling long days in snowy conditions. Both midsoles and uppers will be stiff and supportive, but with just enough flex to sustain a regular walking action. Thicker uppers lend slightly more warmth. There will be a heel ledge to allow fitting of a C2 crampon for the most secure fit and versatile performance.
Terrain: Suitable for the winter Munro bagger, the low or mid-grade Scottish Winter climber and the summer Alpinist.
Example: Scarpa Charmoz or Manta, Mammut Magic GTX.
B3
Description: Boots Graded B3 are suitable for use with technical C3 crampons. The boot is fully rigid and allows the crampon to be used on more technical climbs (where there is likely to be sustained use of the crampon’s front points) without the crampon loosening. B3 boots are likely to be very uncomfortable for approach walks and trekking as they are rigid and often heavily insulated. This boot is for climbing on all high altitude mountains from 5,000 meters to 7,000 meters.
Terrain: Designed for full-on mountaineering, mixed and ice climbing.
Example: La Sportiva G2, Scarpa Phantom Guide or Scarpa Phantom 6000.
B4
Description: Triple-Boots’ for 8,000m or very cold peaks. These are constructed with inner boot, shell and super-gaiter.
Terrain: 8,000m and Denali.
Example: Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 8000.
Crampons
C1
Description: C1 crampons have a webbing tape tether that pulls flexible cradles around the heel and toe to create a secure binding. This system allows good flex and is suitable for fitting to B1, B2 or B3 boots. It is usually found on low profile 10-point crampons with less aggressive points. Compatible with: B1, B2, & B3 boots
Terrain: UK winter walking or glacier traverses.
C2
Description: C2 crampons use a plastic heel lever and a flexible toe cradle. This system will give a secure binding to B2 or B3 boots. Crampons tend to be mid-profile with longer secondary spikes and sharper front points. These are the 12-point all-rounders that are easy enough to walk in but still climb hard when called on. Compatible with: B2 & B3 boots
Terrain: Technical winter scrambles, winter climbing, alpinism
C3
Description: C3 crampons combine a plastic heel lever and metal toe bar. This step-in system gives a really solid fit but will only work with full B3 boots. Usually a C3 binding is found on bigger, badder 12 or 14-point crampons that offer precise performance on steep ice or highly technical mixed routes. Very aggressive vertical front points give the best penetration on hard ice. Top-end crampons for top-end boots.
Terrain: Ice climbing, technical mountaineering
Expedition Boot and Crampon requirements
Expedition: Aconcagua
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Ama Dablam via Everest Base Camp
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Aneto Pyrenees (Summer)
Approach: B1
Climb: B1 and C1 or C2
Expedition: Aneto Pyrenees (Winter)
Approach: B2
Climb: B2 and C1 or C2
Expedition: Annapurna Base Camp
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Carstensz Pyramid
Approach: B1
Climb: B2
Expedition: Cho Oyu
Approach: B1 to BC and B2 to camp one
Climb:B4 and C2
Expedition: Denali
Approach: B4
Climb: B4 and C2
Expedition: Elbrus North-South Traverse
Approach: B1 to high camp
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Everest via the North Col
Approach: B2
Climb: B4 and C2
Expedition: Everest via the South Col
Approach: B1
Climb: B4 and C2
Expedition: Expedition Skills Course
Approach: B1 or B2
Climb: B1 or B2 and C1 or C2
Expedition: The Freedom Trail Pyrenees
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Great Wall of China
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Island Peak via Everest Base Camp
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Jordan Trek to Petra
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Kenya Peak Nelion
Approach: B1
Climb: Rock climbing shoes
Expedition: Kenya Point Lenana
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Khumbu 3 Peaks
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Kinabalu
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Lobuche East via Everest Base Camp
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Machu Picchu via the Lares Valley
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Manaslu Circuit
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Manaslu Summit
Approach: B1
Climb: B4
Expedition: The Matterhorn
Approach: B1
Climb: B2 and C2
Expedition: Mera Peak
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 and C2
Expedition: Mongolia
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Mont Blanc
Approach: B1
Climb: B2 and C2
Expedition: Sahara Desert Trek
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Snowshoeing in the Pyrenees
Approach: B1
Climb: B1 and C1
Expedition: Stok Kangri
Approach: B1
Climb: B3 if necessary – supplied
Expedition: The Thousand Lakes Pyrenees
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Toubkal (Summer Ascent)
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Toubkal (Winter Ascent)
Approach: B2
Climb: B2 and C2
Expedition: TrekPrep Weekend Brecon Beacons
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: UK 3 Peaks
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Via Ferrata in the Pyrenees
Approach: B1
Climb: –
Expedition: Vinson
Approach: B4
Climb: B4 and C2